2-3 Hours One Way |9km One Way | Lewis Pass
Since moving to New Zealand back in 2019 I established new Christmas traditions, that mainly involve jumping on a ferry south with a tent in my car and all the weather Apps under the un downloaded on my phone and then just going wherever the weather is good. The great thing with that is the freedom that it affords you, not having to book ahead and being constrained by the booking if the weather turns (which it so often does). However, every now and again, having a confirmed bed for the night in a dry, warm hut is exactly what you need and in week three of this year's holiday that was exactly where I was at. Having spent a couple of nights camping on the windy Lewis Tops, I was ready for something a bit more luxurious, and given that most would walk on past this Hut and continue on to Ada Pass (just 2 hours further on), the hut didn't have a single booking.
DOC estimates the timings from the road end to the hut to be around 3.5hrs. Given the St/James walkway is a 5 day track, they would be estimating on the basis of this being the first day with very heavy bags. I found I could go a steady pace and still made it in two hours, so it is definitely a good option if you are looking for an overnight stop on the way through Lewis Pass or of course if you are continuing on with the full St.James Walkway.
The track starts off flat, with a good little viewpoint over the lake as a minor detour before you even get started. After around 5 minutes of gravel path and board walk, you start to drop down into the forest, with the path growing gradually steeper and a series of switchback.
For around 20-25 minutes you are winding your way down the hillside towards the Mariua river, passing a few streams and waterfalls along the way. The dense forest providing good shade from the sun most of the way.
One of the most noticeable features of this track for me was the incredible number of Titipounamu (Rifleman) that were flying around. Their high pitched squeaks noticeable pretty much the entire way to the hut. It was really awesome to see!
Having made it down to the river, a large swing bridge appeared in front of me, along with a sign that gave some insight into why the place is named Cannibal Gorge. It is thought to originate from the discovery of human remains that were likely to have been left there following a victory feast after battle. Sobering thought!
After the bridge the track remains relatively flat for the most part over the next hour or so, though a bit of undulation is to be expected as you pick your way along the side of the river through the bush. It is a really well maintained track and boardwalk has been installed in sections to allow you to travel through with a little more ease.
After about an hour, having moved away from the river a little bit, you cross another swing bridge and have the pleasant surprise of a short, sharp uphill section to really get the legs fired up. The good news is that you are only 30-40 minutes away from the hut at this point, so it is the final real push.
Moving through a couple of clearings in the bush and then reconnecting with the river, you finally pop out of the bush to the welcome sight of Cannibal Gorge Hut, stood at the end of the flat with river running alongside. The hut is in good condition and well maintained. It has a fire place and access to water inside, as well as a couple of bunk rooms both connecting into the central living space.
Returning the next day was via the same track and whilst there was a fair portion of uphill in this direction, I returned to the car park in around the same time as I went in (2 hours).
Parking: There is a large car park directly off the main road which is signposted as the start of the St.James Walkway. There is a toilet and access to water here.
Overnight Options: Cannibal Gorge Hut is a 20 Bunk, bookable serviced DOC Hut. You can book via the DOC website. It is also possible to camp here.
