5-7 hours return | 17.2km return | West Coast (Franz Josef)
I read about the Alex Knob track when I first visited New Zealand on holiday, two years before I eventually moved here. Unfortunately, on every occasion that I planned to do it I was met with a poor weather forecast, so it was seven years before the stars aligned (or more accurately put, my flexible travel schedule and avid watching of the weather forecast for the weeks leading up to the trip) and I finally got to complete the track. It was well, well worth the wait!
The start of the track is actually the Lake Wombat track which is defined by DOC as an easy walking track. As the description suggests, this is a well marked, well maintained track that does include a few minor ups and downs, but generally speaking is a nice gentle introduction to the hike. After approximately 20 minutes I arrived at the track junction, where the Lake Wombat track carries on straight, whilst those wanting to head to the Alex Knob veer off to the left.
From here things get more interesting in terms of the terrain, but given that you are expecting a reasonably significant elevation gain on this track, it never really gets too steep or lung busting, which makes this a really great overnight option as carrying the heavy bag isn't as big a punishment as on some of the steeper tracks.
That being said, I had been camping on the Mount Fox summit the night before and returned down the mountain that morning, so my legs were still feeling the impact of the steep downhill on that one and I was really hoping I would ascend this track quicker than the descriptions. I did, but possibly not as quickly as my mind wanted me to. As I approached the clearing below, I optimistically thought it was the Rata Lookout point. Sadly not, I still had about 10 minutes to go, but it was a nice view none-the-less!
I had set off just after 4pm that day in the hope I would make it up for sunset. The weather forecast was for a clear night and morning the next day, but some clouds that evening, so I wasn't expecting too many views on the way up. I did see the Glacier at the Rata Lookout, but it was much better the next morning so my photo below is actually from the following day. From the start of the track it had taken me approximately 70 minutes to the lookout. If you aren't looking to go all the way up to Alex Knob, this could be a turnaround point. Though if you have made it this far and are feeling good, then it is only another 30-40 minutes to the Christmas Lookout which offers a slightly clearer view of the Franz Josef Glacier, so it could be worth continuing on.
The track between the two lookouts is stunning West Coast track. Beautiful native bush, not too much elevation gain and some really cool tree archways covering the track for you to walk through.
The Christmas Lookout gives you a stunning view of the Glacier through the valley and is a great spot for a bit of a break. There are plenty of rocks to sit on and some trees offering shade if it is a warm day. Again I opted to use a photo from the descent where it was clearer, but on the way up the Glacier was visible underneath the cloud, just not to the mountain tops.
From here the track got a little more challenging in terms of gradient, but was still a well formed, marked track through the bush. The cloud was increasingly rolling in and so views were occasional, but never-the-less beautiful.
Around 2 hours and 45 minutes after leaving the car park, I made it to the Alex Knob. By now there were no views at all and the rain started coming over so I carried on past the sign post onto the plateau beyond and put my tent up in a position that I thought would allow me to see the glacier. It was an educated guess, but a good one, as when the cloud eventually gave way (just in time for sunset) I discovered that I had found the perfect spot to capture both the Glacier and West Coast view.
My tent perched on the mountainside looking out to the West Coast.
The iconic Franz Josef Glacier emerging between the cloud layers.
My favourite camping location to date.
It was a beautifully clear night with the full moon lighting up the mountains and Glacier as I headed to bed. The next morning I was woken at 4am by two Kea having a conversation on either side of my tent. They didn't stop and fearing that their conversation would turn to vandalism I conceded and opened up my tent. Greeted by a great view of the starts above the mountain and my favourite birds, I really wasn't too upset about being awake earlier than planned! I packed my tent away and sat back to enjoy the sunrise.
The weather gods had been kind to me and as forecast it was a stunning morning. With barely a cloud in the sky and 360 panoramic views of mountains, coastline and braided river, my only challenge was knowing which direction to look in at any given time.
I decided to head down as the sun was still coming up. The return is via the same track, but this time I had a view all the way back.
Alex Knob with clear skies.
There is the option to add on a side trip to Lake Wombat. I would suggest doing this on the way back down if you are heading up for a view of the Glacier as the weather changes quickly so you don't want to delay getting up there. However, on the way down, it is around another 5 minutes from the Lake Wombat turn off to the Lake (and then back again) so only adds around 10 minutes to your return.
Below: Beautiful light coming through the bush as I walked back down towards the car park.
Parking: There is a car park at the start of the Alex Knob/Lake Wombat Track, though on my way back down I spotted a sign saying there is no Overnight Parking allowed so check for options if intending to camp up there.
Overnight Options: Camping with no facilities so abide by the pack in, pack out principles.
